'Toy napigket nga daga
Pitpitenmi nga umuna
Danggayanmi't kankanta
Takkiagmi a napigsa
Kettang ken bannogmi
dikam igingina 

     Mannamili
 
   Ilokano Folk Song


 
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ABSTRACT

Agpamakanda: 150+ Years of Ilokanos in America's Restaurants
Ana Marcelo
Sacramento, California

          The paper  is both a historical narrative and a personal account of the large contribution Ilokanos have made to this nation’s restaurant industry.  Offered unabashedly as homage, this is for the unsung thousands of Ilokanos who have been, to millions of diners, their oft-anonymous busboys, dishwashers or waiters, and their bartenders, bakers, or cooks. 

Since at least the 1840s, substantial numbers of Iloko speakers have been employed in private homes, in the military, and in lofty places like the White House.  However, most of their combined toil in food and beverage creation, presentation, and cleanup has been in commercial eateries.

From Maine to Guam, and from Alaska to Tutuila, Ilokanos have worked in all sorts of restaurants in countless cities and towns, resorts, and national parks.

Hawai`i is unique in its own Ilokano subculture and history.  Ilokano-owned eating businesses blend into Hawai`i’s island landscapes.  Indisputably, the achievements of restaurant Ilokanos in this state and elsewhere outside the mainland must not be ignored.  But because of sheer demographic numbers, by default this article is focused upon the American mainland, where most of the Ilokano diaspora’s story has been carried out.


 
 

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